All though this guide is titled Cherry shrimp guide the content of it can be used for all neocaridina species like the ever so popular green jades and blue dreams.
Neocaridina are a group of small dwarf freshwater shrimp and they comes in a large variety of types with the most common being the Cherry Shrimp.
Cherry shrimp are very hardy, this makes them a great choice of shrimp for someone just starting out in the hobby as they are so forgiving, this is whats probably made cherry the most popular small dwarf freshwater shrimp in the world today.
They originally came from Taiwan but are now very widespread across the world and should not be hard for anyone to find. they are extremely easy to breed and maintain and are often known as a bomb proof shrimp because they can live in conditions that would be considered too extreme for other shrimp.
I have as an example unknowingly transferred young Cherry Shrimp into tanks that have never been cycled and done almost 90% water changes in them which for most shrimp would be too much, they also have another huge bonus they literally breed like rabbits.
As a starting brood, I’d recommend buying a minimum of ten shrimp to start with.When buying shrimp always ask other people for recommendations on sellers, look across forums and groups and ask around about seller reputation you can of course always buy locally which in many cases will end up being cheaper for you and safer.
The bigger the Aquarium the better but you get what you can afford, the benefits of larger tanks are water stability which is key with shrimp but they can cost so much more to buy.
Most people tend to have smaller planted nano tanks which are ideal for cherry shrimp.
My own rule of thumb is to never buy a smaller tank than say a 20 Gallon but this is just for personal preference.
My personal favorite substrate for Neocaridina and certain types of Tiger shrimp is plain old sand or gravel which the shrimp love to sift through and forage for food.
I prefer river sand because of its nice balanced color which suits aquariums.
To wash it all you have to do is place it in a bucket of water and stir it up with your hand, repeat this process and empty out the dirty water.
You can also use pre-washed gravels like pea gravel but don’t ever pre-wash an active substrate it is not required.
You should also use a minimal depth of 3cm in all of your shrimp tanks this is because different bacteria have different needs and some of them are light sensitive, take aerobic bacteria, for example, they require little to no water movement and some species require complete darkness.
Substrate choice is of pure preference so do your research and ask questions in forums.
Having a cups worth of crushed coral in a 60 liter tank as an example can be very very beneficial for a tank in a number of ways which I will list.
All living things need energy from the sun to create a food source so unless you live near a thermal vent four miles down in the depths of the ocean you are going to have to provide your shrimp with some type of light.
Getting the lighting right can play a very important part in keeping and breeding shrimp in general, shrimp by nature are algae eaters and nothing grows algae and a good healthy biofilm like good lighting in a tank, so I cannot emphasis this enough, get yourself a good light source that will illuminate every part of the tank. The more biofilm you have the more shrimp you can keep.
I recommend anything from 8-10 hours a day. The light needs to be in the 6000k daylight range for two reasons, you can use a lower 4000k light but this will make the tank and the shrimp look orange, lights like this will often be marked as warm so you want to avoid these ..
..on the opposite end of the spectrum you could also use 10,000k lights but in a freshwater setting they don’t look natural, people think of the sea as being blue so this is where marine tanks look great under a higher kelvin of light.
The other reason is I think most plants do well in the 6000k range, it also looks natural.
This will be the single most important thing in deciding whether or not you will be successful at keeping Shrimp.
Water Is the giver of all life and it is important that you understand that what is safe for you might not necessarily be safe for Shrimp.
Typically our drinking water can contain elements such as chlorine and fluoride which are deadly to Shrimp so we have to remove them. By far the easiest way to do this is to use a water conditioner like Seachem Prime
It is also very important that you age the water you are going to use for at least 24hrs, this is to let the water heat up and also allow the pH to stabilize. Tap water under pressure in your pipes contain millions of tiny air bubbles this increases the Ph of the water. As an example, the pH of the water straight from my tap is 8 if I leave it to age and degas it drops down to 6.5 after 24hrs.
Add the substrate of your choice and add your filter I recommend a small sponge filter with a small powerhead for small tanks but you can also use other filtration methods like hang on back filter and canister filter
In an ideal world, I would use 2-3 canister filters in a chain with a double sponge filter on the intakes of all my tanks.
You might also want to build in redundancies into your filtration setup, I typically have one power head on a sponge pat mini style and I have one air driven sponge, this is so if one fails I have a back up.
Both types of filtration has pros and cons, the powerheads as an example can become death traps if you do not see you have a power cut, shrimp can climb into this type of filter and be liquidated if they get past the impeller and the power comes back on.
Another con would be that they actually do head up the water a tiny bit, they also require a plug, which doesn’t sound like anything bad but it can be once you get a higher number of tanks.
Sponge filters can be noisy especially when you have a room full of them and often they will be driven by a single singular central airpump, if this fails your entire rooms filtration fails.
One positive you can say is at least when the shrimp climb inside a sponge filter after a power cut that no harm can come to them because there are no moving parts in a sponge filter.
Another thing to note is water flow, I like a circular type flow with all types of filtration helping each other keep the water moving in a certain direction, I used to aim the flow along the longest edge of the tank but I think this actually creates dead spots which you want to avoid.
Now I do circular flow and I try and get the flow of the water so that its traveling an inch or a few centimetres a second.
You also want the water to be well oxygenated so add bubblers, airstones sponge filters etc.
You may also consider adding a sotching oxydater which supplies pure oxygen to the tank, these devices are a god send when you start to hit the summer months and warmer water conditions.
I want to keep this part as simple as possible so we shall do bullet points.
Ghost feeding is just you pretending there were shrimp in the tank so you feed the tank as if there was.
I like to use things like fish flakes for this and dont go overboard you only need a pinch.
After 6 weeks your tank should be cycled.
Now is a good time for you to break out ammonia test kit and see what you have, I personally don’t do this anymore because the tanks are always ready but it is good practice for you to see it for yourself.
Let me touch briefly on why the cycle process is important.
A shrimp tank needs a stable nitrogen cycle to function properly and in the early stages, it is anything but stable…
…bacterial colony’s will thrive and die off as they compete with each other for the resources your tanks hold, this is why I recommend starting with a bacterial powder so that you choose the type of bacteria.
Bacterial colonies can also take a little while to get going and some anaerobic bacteria can take a longer time than normal.
The best temperature for Cherry Shrimp IMO is 22-24c, they can live in higher temperatures but you will see a higher mortality rate and shorter life span, breeding shrimp can be a balancing act of what is best for the shrimp and how to get the optimal growth breeding rates without it having detrimental effects.
A great example of this is egg hatching, the warmer the water is the faster the eggs grow but the percentage of surviving young shrimplets will be less, you also have to remember things like oxygen levels decrease as water gets hotter and also bacteria counts get higher which also effects mortality rates.
I have no concrete evidence on this either way just my observations but I do know that this is true in crayfish so here are my thoughts on this matter.
In nature during a wet season the fresh water will flow into the waterways lowering the water temperature, this effect signals the optimum conditions for all creatures living in the water to reproduce and breed.
If there is lots of food and an influx of freshwater the population will grow faster, hence why the female shrimp are favored on the lower side of the optimal scale, think of it this way lots of females produce lots of baby shrimp and conditions like oxygen demands will be more suitable for young animals.
When the water is warmer the shrimp will still need to breed but they have to do so at an equal ratio probably a 1-1 this ensure both sexes will always be available to mate.
Another interesting concept would be do temperature changes during egg gestation affect the shrimp in any way? Can it change color like it does in many reptiles like Python’s and Alligators as an example?
This just depends on where the tank will be situated, if your home is roughly above 20c most of the time you will not need a heater in the tank. If you live in hotter areas you will need to figure out a way to keep the tank cooler.
A very common method is to have a fan blowing across the surface of the tank, that can lower the temperature by a few degrees..if you still can’t get the water cold enough you may consider buying an aquarium chiller
Let’s start by identifying what the abbreviation pH means.
pH stands for potential hydrogen.(lots of people also state this as potential hardness) so pH is a measurement of the hydrogen in the water, the more you have the harder your water will be.
Shrimp Tank pH is measured on a scale between 0-14, 0 would be very acidic while 14 would be very alkaline, while a ph of 7 would be neutral. The pH scale for Red Cherry shrimp ought to be slightly on the hard scale and range from 6.8 and up This variable can maximize health, color and egg hatching rates.
I note that they do well in tanks that have large rocks and plain gravel this could be from mineral content leeching out from both ..things like lava rock are ideal. As with nitrite, ammonia must always be as close to zero as possible after the cycle period which should be two months.
This is to give your shrimp tank time to build up a proper nitrogen cycle.All shrimp in general like most aquatic life are highly prone to toxic poisoning if ammonia is present in a tank.
A female Cherry Shrimp
Adding plants to the fish tank and doing constant water changes are great ways to reduce nitrate levels. higher than 20ppm shrimp are vulnerable to nitrate poisoning. I like to keep mines under 5ppm and adjust this through water changes and adding a very small amount of fertilizer as required
General Hardness :This is a measurement of Calcium and Magnesium. The more you have of these two the harder the water will be. I recommend between 6-10 for all Neocaridina types.
kH means Carbonate Hardness from the German Karbonathärte
This is a measurement of the buffering capacity of the water.
With an active substrate you don’t need to worry about kH but if you are on sand or gravel you should have some kH value as this will stop your talk from having pH swings which could kill your shrimp. For Cherry Shrimp, I recommend a kH of between 2-4.
There are many buffers on that market that would be suitable for cherry shrimp and any good standard aquarium buffer will do, you can also use things like crushed coral or oyster shell and egg shells and even cuttlebone from cuttlefish
They will slowly dissolve allowing some kH to stabilize the aquarium. Whatever you do choose just remember to give the items a good wash and rinse If you use eggshells wash them under warm water and removal all of the protein layers from the inside.
Basic 10% once a week with tap-water and dechlorinator.
Advanced 5% daily with reverse osmosis water (max breeding setup, 100 liters plus tank size and crushed coral used)
Solution to pollution is dilution (STPID) stupid
Think of your tank as a living thing it needs pollution from organics and other elements removed but it also needs other materials replaced and replenished. The first step is to ask yourself about your water source is it tap water is it Reverse Osmosis water is it well water?
Basic If it is tap water it is in your interest to use some type of dechlorinator to bind harmful elements together until your tank has time to deal with them ..Prime is my go to but there are other. Aging your water also helps reduce the shock of doing a water change this is because fresh water straight from the tap has a very high PH this is because its under mains pressure and full of oxygen. all aging water is, in a nutshell, are you letting the water sit in an open container for 24hrs before using it, I like to use a small powerhead in my container to give the water movement.
I personally notice an increase in vigor and growth while doing larger more frequent water changes why I can’t say for sure but to hypothesize the less an organism has to do the more energy it has to put into growth If your shrimp’s immune system as an example is not fighting off large excessive bacterial counts in the tank then it can concentrate all its efforts on say reproduction.
When using tap water please find a way to drip the new water back into the tank, this is because tapwater can greatly differ from whats actually in your tank, so take it slow, drip water back in at a rate of a few drips a second.
The way I like to think of this is how do you feel about jumping straight into a hot bath .. take your time or jump straight in ?
Advanced Follow the same rules as above for general aging, set your reverse osmosis water to roughly 200ppm using a a tds pen and buffer,
IMPORTANT Use a cup of crushed coral in tanks in both types of water, this will help regulate your ph and resulting water parameters in general.
In a nutshell
The best thing to do is place your new shrimp into a large bowl and then take an appropriate length of silicon tube to make a siphon from the tank to the bowl, flow restrictors can be used here to adjust the water flow to 1-3 drips per second.
Remember you are in no rush to do this and it’s in your shrimp’s interests to take your time. Once 1.5 hours have passed your shrimp will be ready to go straight into the tank. Basic
Advanced Match tds of water in the shipping bag to the tank water.
Also, remember to use a timer so you can keep an eye on the acclimation progress because it is very easy to forget.
From my observations, adult cherry shrimp in good condition molt every 3-4 weeks which coincides with the gestation period of the young shrimp. Younger shrimp molt much more frequently and very young shrimp can molt almost every other day.
Shrimp are invertebrates meaning they don’t have a skeletal structure like we do on the inside, a shrimp skeletal structure if you will call it that is on the outside of its body, for it to grow it has to shed its old shell and replace it with a new one, a good way to think of this is like your fingernail growing, as you cut the old nail away a new one is ready to grow into its place.
What is very important in a shrimps life is that it always has enough minerals and vitamins from good fresh foods so that it has everything it needs to complete the molting process. Poor diet can lead to failed molts and underdeveloped eggs that take a much longer to hatch.
Why does that matter ? as I mentioned before female adult Cherry Shrimp will want to molt every 3-4 weeks so it is very important for them that the eggs are ready to hatch at the best times..a delaying in molting will cause stress and you will notice this as her color starts to fade.Which will eventually lead to the female shrimp’s death? I hope you are now starting to see the coloration between good food temperature and reproduction.
If you do have a dead female you can save the eggs if you find her soon enough, you are required to remove the eggs with a toothpick and place them in a net near moving water. Check the net every other day and remove any eggs that have started to fungus up, also make sure the net is high enough that snails cant climb into it or they will eat the eggs.
Shrimp are what I would call detrivores, this mean that they eat decaying plant and animal matter, they sift through detritus with their little hair cover claws which I think look like eyelashes, in essence, what they are doing is sweeping food into their mouths, this is very evident on large fan species of shrimp.
Feeding Cherry shrimp in the correct tank setup is very simple, they typically will consume 70% of food from the tank itself (This is why macronutrients dosing can be of help) in the form of biofilm, algae and other microfauna.
The Rule I have always used is to add a small amount of food to the tank and watch the shrimps reaction ..if they all rush to it and eat the food you are doing well however if they sit back and hide then there could be a problem with overfeeding and poor water quality.
The solution as always would be to cut back on the food, Once a week you should also feed a bacterial product to the tank to keep the bacteria number up which the shrimp also benefit from in the form of food and clean water.
Best foods are spinach kale and nettles but you can also give them other green foods, I will leave a video below on feeding shrimp but shrimp should be fed no more than they will eat in 2 hours and then remove the rest.
This shrimp food is designed for all aquarium shrimp including the adults and the young.It’s also suitable for all species of shrimp and crayfish including the very common Cherry Shrimp and Crystal Red Shrimp.
As the name suggests this shrimp foods main ingredient is Nettle which is absolutely packed with vitamins and minerals which are essential for health shrimp to grow.
Can you keep shrimp and fish together? Shrimp, in general, are best kept in individual tanks where the owner can look after there needs properly, Tanks, where fish are present, are a problem because all fish will predate on Shrimp of all sizes, as a rule, I say the two do not go together but if you must then please make sure you provide plenty of coverage for shrimp and young alike.
Good Ideas for this are plants tied to wood, caves and leaf litter as an example.
Fish that should be avoided at all costs are chichlids and fish like goldfish, these will hunt down shrimp and turn your tank inside out hunting for them.
If I had to keep fish with shrimp I would probably go for some otto cats and maybe some very small tetra species.
Fish like betas are very dependent on the actual fish itself, some are very peaceful while others are very aggressive.
I like to also use very large snails in my tanks to help with stuff like over feeding, the byproduct of this is shrimp eat snail poop which seems to be very good for them.
Snails I have or would recomend are as follows marisa snails, apple snails , spixi snail , mystrery snails.
Just be aware that these larger snail types do tend to eat lots of plants and can make a mess, If your only goal is to max breed shrimp stick with the larger snails, If you wish to have a planted tank stick to smaller snails like ramshorns snail and trumpet snails.
Breeding Cherry Shrimp is very simple if you follow the guidelines show above and is more of a collection of a lot of conditions being good for them than any one thing I could write down here..clean water at the correct temperature and good food go along way to helping shrimp breed.As a conditioner to get my shrimp producing more baby shrimp you can once a week feed them a high protein food.
If you have to feed them properly and give them a well-balanced diet they should be ready to breed at the 3-month-old stage, female cherry shrimp will have a bright green or yellow saddle in the back this is where the eggs are stored after being passed down from the ovaries
after a female has molted a male will mate with her, after approximately 3 weeks at 23c the young should be ready to hatch out, the females at this time will often go and find a nice dark spot to hide while she releases the young.
The young after being born are very small and tend to be stationary for the first few days but they will move to find food.. shrimp at this age molt a lot as I mentioned in the above section until they are adults which takes roughly 2 months.
Typically you should give yourself the best chance of success by buying a good number of numbers to start with ..10 is a very good number for a few reasons, The first is shrimp do like to hide in the beginning so its better for your viewing pleasure to start with more than less.
Another common statement I see a lot is people declaring is that they have all the same sex !! 99% of the time the shrimp are just to young to see any real difference. A secondary problem can arise from buying to little shrimp and overfeeding, In my opinion, tanks with a good number of shrimp start out better than those with just a few in it.This is because the more mouths you have to feed the less chance there is of you polluting the tank by putting too much food in.
Cherry Shrimp are very easy to sex a ripe female will be large and ether have a saddle (think like a horses saddle) in its back that can range from bright green to bright yellow or be berried, berried is a term we use to describe the female holding the eggs in the belly region.
Males, on the other hand, can be very clear in comparison, smaller and be more streamlined, I like to think they are made this way be able to swim faster. This is evident when a female has molted because you will see the shrimp dance as the males search the entire aquarium for that female that just molted.
There is a chemical called chitin that is released as a female starts the molting process that drives the males into a frenzy, after the female has molted a male will seek her out to mate with ..its not uncommon for females to be harassed to death at this point as they are very vulnerable so please provide them with some hiding places and a few floating plants.
Depending on the temperature you should be able to see baby Cherry Shrimp in 3-4 week. Do not worry if you see nothing because they are very good at hiding and more often than not you will have lots and lots of tiny Red Cherry Shrimp In the tank.After being born cherry shrimp will often be tiny see-through versions of their parents. do not worry if you don’t see a lot of them in the beginning, they start out life at just under 1mm in size.
Young shrimp at this age tend to molt a lot so it is important that you feed them a powdered food such as Bio Mix or BacterAE, If these are not available, you can also use organic pollen.
To get max breeding in a tank its a good idea that you do not let the male population in a tank get out of controls as they can harass a freshly molted female to death.
I used to use a ratio of 5 females to 1 male in my tank, which results in you having an awfuly full tank of berried shrimp and young.
Happy Shrimp Keeping
Marks Shrimp Tanks
They come from Southeastern Brasil, and like South Americans are fun and colorful. Officially their name is Asolene spixii, but they are commonly known as spixi snails, spixi apple snails, or zebra snails. They are one of the rarest snail species in the aquarium hobby and unfortunately they are almost extinct in their South America’s natural habitat.
Common in ponds, ditches shallow lagoons, slow-moving streams and rivers with sandy and soil bottom, they are an aquatic, freshwater animals.
Spixi’s habitat is full of vegetation. They prefer soft and neutral water, similar to their habitat in the Amazon river. In addition, water temperature should be between 24 and 27 degrees C or 75 and 2 degrees F. They will semi-bury in the sandy bottom of the aquarium and wait there if the water is too cold. Spixi snails don’t require a large tank, they can do well with 10 liters tank, sand and soil bottom and a warm water, they are one of the better shrimp to have in a soft water tank with bee shrimp.
A healthy spixi snail is easily identifiable. Spixi snails are a smaller freshwater species with yellowish shells and dark spiral stripes on them. The shell of Asolene spixi has a pointed top, and the shell opening is an oval shape. Spixi’s shell structure is relatively flat as they are small and smooth. In addition, the base of their shells is yellow or white, on it there are dark brown or almost black spiral strips.
Their brown strips give spixi snails the zebra pattern effect. The body of a healthy snail is light brown or sometimes dark yellow with very long tentacles and dark brown spots, mainly on the head. The corneous, medium-thick operculum is concentric, the nucleus is located near the center of the shell. Healthy spixi snails live from 2 to 3 years on average, with the exceptional care they can live up to four or five years.
In addition, spixi snails will live well in most types of friendly aquarium setups. they can be very quiet and shy during the day, with the exception of the lunchtime. They are social and and like to hang out in groups like above, evermore they rarely show aggression. towards shrimps and small fishes.
On the other hand, they aren’t either completely plant safe. Especially younger spixi snails may eat soft and tender plants. Spixis can’t chop, so they eat the tender parts of aquarium plants and leave small holes on them. Like written before, they are friendly with other snails, shrimps and fishes, but shouldn’t be kept with assassins snails, Malaysian trumpet snails as they will eat trumpet snails.
One of the best reasons to keep them in with shrimp is that they eat any dead shrimp which in turn stops you from having tank crashes, deaths from ammonia.
Spixi snails are a nocturn specie, they will be friendly with almost all fish, shrimp, and snails species with the exception for assassins snails, trumpet snails.
The best decision is to feed spixi snails a varied menu. They mostly survive on what is in the tank, but will eat shrimp’s and fish’s food too. Spixi snails like pellets for catfish, fish flakes and shrimps granule. Their diet should contain both animal and vegetable matter. Spixi snails are found of vegetable like spinach, chopped zucchini, chopped carrots, but also of pasta and rice. For their shells it is important to provide spixis with calcium supplements like my calcium cubes here
Spixi snails reach maturity at the age of four or five months. Younger snails grow relatively fast, but should be kept separated from adult spixis.
Female spixi snails lay eggs only underwater. Spixi snail’s eggs are deposed on aquarium plants, stones, glass, embedded in a gelatinous mass. Adult spixi snails can eat their eggs as well as other snail’s eggs. It is a good idea to move the eggs until 21 or 30 days, when they usually hatch.
In conclusion, spixi snails are not demanding and very easy to care for. You must be careful where your spixi snails come from . If you import them directly from abroad, then an importation permit is required in the United States for rare aquatic snails in order to verify species and examine shipments for contamination for and other agricultural matters.
This page shall serve as a quick glance reference page for know crosses of shrimp.
I will add the ones I know of and will add to this list as we get more information.
Ruby Red X Red Bolt = Red Nanashi Shrimp ?
Black King Kong X Blue Bolt = Black Nanashi ?
Crystal Red X Tangerine Tiger = Fancy Tiger ( Possible red fishbone pinto as I see this cross in the same )
Crystal Red X Yellow King Kong = Red Calceo
Crystal Black X Yellow King Kong = Black Calceo
Black Zebra Pinto X Blue Steel = Blue /Black Galaxy Pinto
Red Zebra Pinto X Red Steel = Red Galaxy Pinto
Let me know what you crosses you know about and if I can confirm them they will be added here with kudos.
Snails make an excellent addition to an aquarium enthusiast’s tank, and Marisa snails is no exception. This peaceful breed, scientifically known as Marisa cornuarietis, is lovely to look at and easy to care for. If you are interested in owning Marisa snails, (more commonly known as Giant Ramshorn Snails) this article will give you an in-depth look at the care and maintenance required for keeping these snails comfortable in their new environment.
The Giant Ramshorn snail has a large shell with a maximum size of 35 to 50 mm in diameter, or about 2 inches. While they are similar in name to true Ramshorn snails, such as the Great Ramshorn snail, they are not related. The Giant Ramshorn snail comes from the family Ampullariidae, while true Ramshorn snails are from the family Planorbidae.
Aside from being quite large, Giant Ramshorn snails also have a striking appearance. They can come in a wide variety of colors, ranging from pale to dark yellows, reds, and browns. While some snails can have duller colors, others may come in more vibrant shades of the colors listed. The underside of their shell is usually paler in color than the top. They typically have three to six dark and uneven spiral stripes, although, in some mutations, the snail’s shell may have no stripes at all.
Unlike some species of snails, the Giant Ramshorn snail is not hermaphroditic. Males can be differentiated from females by their operculum, which is rounder.
In the wild, Giant Ramshorn snails originated in South America, and can be found in freshwater areas such as lakes, rivers, and ponds. Today, the Giant Ramshorn has expanded to other tropical regions, including parts of Florida and Texas. This snail prefers warm water temperatures, and as such, it cannot tolerate the colder temperatures of upper North America. While omnivorous, this species of snail loves to eat lots of vegetation, and they prefer areas with dense underwater foliage, as well as water that is slow-moving.
When caring for Giant Ramshorn snails, you need to make sure your aquarium is equipped to handle all of their needs. Their water has to be moderately hard with a good amount of calcium to ensure proper shell growth. Water whose hardness is too low can ruin your snail’s shell.
Giant Ramshorn snails prefer slightly alkaline waters, so the pH of your aquarium should be between 7.5 to 7.8. Your aquarium’s temperature range should be 75 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit, although they can tolerate temperatures as low as 64 degrees. While owners typically keep Giant Ramshorn snails in freshwater, they can tolerate brackish water with up to 30% salinity. However, if they are living in brackish water, these snails will not breed.
If you intend to keep Giant Ramshorn snails, you will need an aquarium of at least 20 gallons to prevent your snails from becoming overcrowded.
They prefer slow-moving water, so a tank with a high amount of current is not well suited to this particular species. Live plants are also good for keeping Giant Ramshorn snails, so long as they are not intended for decorative purposes. These snails will happily devour the foliage with surprising speed.
As these snails may sometimes want to breathe above water, it is a good idea to leave a bit of air space at the top of your tank. Furthermore, make sure the lid of your tank is sealed so that heat cannot escape; these snails prefer warm and humid conditions.
Giant Ramshorn snails are peaceful and can happily coexist with nearly any other breed of fish. The only possible danger comes from large and aggressive species of fish, such as loaches and cichlids, who may try and turn your snails into a quick lunch.
Care and Feeding
Giant Ramshorn snails are omnivorous. You can feed them live or frozen food, including pellets and flakes, and you should also consider supplementing any carnivorously-based diet with plant matter such as cucumbers, cabbages, and algae wafers.
They love to munch on aquatic vegetation, so if you are trying to encourage full and beautiful plant growth in your aquarium, Giant Ramshorn snails may not make the best addition to your tank. If you’re not too worried about the destruction, however, your snails would greatly appreciate any live plants as a supplement to their diet.
Breeding Giant Ramshorn snails is incredibly easy, as most of the process will take place without any intervention. The only step you can take to encourage breeding is by ensuring that your tank has freshwater; Giant Ramshorn snails can live in brackish water, but they will not breed in it.
They lay their eggs in disc-shaped clumps of goo, which can cling to virtually any surface within a tank. These snails typically choose to lay their eggs against the aquarium glass, so keep a careful eye out for a cluster of white eggs between two and three millimeters in diameter. The eggs will become larger and more transparent over time, before eventually hatching (which usually occurs within two weeks). After hatching, the baby snails will hide amongst your tank’s gravel. You won’t have to do anything to help raise them, as these baby snails are quite independent.
The only real difficult part of breeding is that these snails can quickly overrun your tank if you aren’t careful! Giant Ramshorn snails can lay up to 200 eggs in a single clutch, and you might find yourself with a tank full of snails within a few months. If this is something you’re worried about, you can always increase the salinity of your tank to discourage breeding.
Due to its peaceful nature and striking appearance, the Giant Ramshorn snail makes a wonderful addition to many freshwater aquariums. While slow-moving, these voracious eaters are fun to watch, and they are also incredibly easy to care for. So long as you keep them in a tank of at least 20 gallons, and make sure that your water conditions are favorable, you can expect your Giant Ramshorn snails to thrive in your aquarium’s ecosystem.
Marks Shrimp Tanks
Salvinia Minima is one of around 12 recognized species of Salvinia. Originally from South/Central America and West indies, it has been found wild growing in a number of north american states and due to its’ invasive nature has been banned in some of them including Texas. It is related to Azolla, another floating plant Genus.
Salvinia Minima is also known as water spangles, water moss(?) and other various names but is actually a floating fern. It is often confused with S. Natans and/or S.Rotundifolia. One way of identifying it is to get a magnifying glass and look at the hairs on the leaves. Typically Salvinia leaf hairs are joined at the top into a kind of “egg-beater” shape including S.Molesta and S.Auriculata and look like this…..
Salvinia Minima however has free ends to its hairs thus………
The leaves are arranged in 3s along a short stalk. 2 of these appear as floating leaves with the hairs as above. The third is finely divided and submersed and gives the appearance of roots. The “roots” therefore are in fact a modified leaf and not true roots at all.
Propagation in aquarium is by division. The stalk will grow producing more leaves and it may have more than 20 floating leaves along it. At some point the stem will separate and will become 2 plants. You may speed this up by dividing plants manually splitting the stems. I would advise leaving at least 4 leaves on each plant if you try this.
Lighting should be medium at least and no CO2 is required. The addition of more intense lighting and CO2 may assist growth. A wide range of PH is tolerated from 5.0 – 8.5. In all S.Minima is an undemanding plant easily kept and grown in aquaria. It has even been known to tolerate salt to 7000 ppm.
Benefits of Salvinia include Nitrate reduction (it is a great Nitrate vacuum sucking it out of your water!) and provides shelter for fry, shade for a controlled section of your aquarium for any submersed plants or inhabitants that prefer a little less light, and as a source of grazing for Shrimp. Some bubble-nesters like Gouramis and Bettas may use the underneath of the plants as a base for their nests. Dried Salvinia have also been used as a food source for growing infusoria to feed fry. Salvinia is not however a great source of nutrition for higher aquatic creatures in comparison to protein-rich Duckweed for instance. In it’s natural habitat it will however out-compete duckweed proving to be dominant in most bodies of water.
Management of Salvinia is easy thanks to the size of the plants, especially when compared to the nightmare of trying to remove Duckweed on a permanent basis. Left to its own devices, Salvinia will cover your aquaria. There are several ways to manage this including regular removal (be careful of those shrimp and fry hiding in there though!) Perhaps easier would be to contain them within a plant ring or matain a free space letting them grow around it…..
These plant ring may be made from numerous materials including airline linked in a loop, but are not always as successful as a product designed specifically for this purpose. Airline in particular may be difficult to get to float 360 degrees around its perimeter due to its more flexible nature.
Salvinia species are a great addition to aquaria provided they are controlled. They have many benefits to the shrimp keeper, not least in helping to control nitrate.
They are best kept with a plant ring either within the ring to maintain a small area of them or using a ring to maintain a clear space for feeding and to encourage the gaseous exchange within your water.
Mark has Salvinia in his shop for sale Here
For UK aquarium keepers you may find some here as well as the plant rings pictured above which are shipped worldwide:
Covid19 has undeniably affected us all over the last few months, with many people being sick and dying. (rest in peace) and the rest of us hoping we dont somehow get it.
This is my take on the whole thing and how it has affected my family and strangely enough the shrimp room.
Here In Norway, I don’t see much change in that there are not many sick people here;
I don’t see people wearing masks in the street, and our communities have never fully been closed off from each other.
Although there was a temporary ban on people going from one commune to the next that has been lifted.
We are pretty much free to do what we like walking, touring, fishing, camping, etc. However, we can’t travel out of the country because the airports are closed.
We still had the two-meter rule, which I think everyone has, but how effective that is I don’t know.
I have seen preventative measures in many places like pharmacies and hospitals in that if you are not sick by other means, there is no reason for you to be in these places, most of the time, these places have had extra security as well with paid staff handling the doors.
An example of this is I have graves disease, which needs a minor operation to cure, so I still need regular blood testing even with the COVID pandemic threat.
Our borders were pretty much closed as soon as COVID 19 started to break out in other countries across Europe. People who have had to come home from abroad and self isolate for two weeks to make sure they were not sick.
I check our new cases and death tolls daily on a website which I will list below. I see Norwegians really had this under control from the start with the right procedures and protocols.
In Norway, specifically, I can see new cases and deaths have fallen, and this country is starting to open up again, Schools have been back for almost two weeks at the time of writing this post. (thank god )
Lots of people are still off work, but the majority of stores are open again, the things that are still closed are places where masses of people would meet like hotels, airports football stadiums as an example.
You can check out your own country, and its statistics here just scroll down to the bottom of the page. https://www.worldometers.info/coronavirus/?fbclid=IwAR1xhrBzaW3zrTTZj8qT0lFDa-wuxkeVHQ5PF29Q4KZFqnrpR2zKgMlEPlI#countries
The knock-on effects from all this will no doubt last for many many years to come. The postal service has never been this busy as they struggle to cope with staff being off and the massive increase in people buying stuff online.
Companies like Amazon will be making billions right now, and I for one will likely no longer be using them, this isn’t really the place to talk about this but let’s just say I don’t like the way they have treated people that make them money, there will be more on this in another post.
I also see this effect of people being stuck at home across all of my platforms, my store has never been this busy, this website gets hundreds and hundreds of views a day, and my YouTube channel is thriving.
This isn’t strictly a COVID 19 thing because we also see this kind of seasonal growth around the wintertime when in general, people stay inside more.
What this has also shown me is that it’s essential that we all support our local business and mom and pop type stores.
When the real shit hits the fan, and you really need to get things, these people will be the ones you are depending on these are the ones that will help you through it.
An excellent example of this is I have a decent but cheap air pump that supplies oxygen to half my shrimp tanks for the sponge filters, what if it broke down? What if it failed?
This has happened to me a few years back, I had a complete failure of a pump when a rubber diaphragm ripped, I had to wait two weeks on spare parts turning up from Germany, so you can see during this COVID epidemic I would have been screwed if this had happened again right now.
With the postal service almost being at a standstill, I decided to take a look at what was around me within Norway. I found a few places that supplied pumps that were good enough for a backup, and I bought one.
To buy things in your area google now promotes more stuff from where you are based “businesses registered with google will be recommended more in search, “you can also just type in your area with your search query, let me give you a few examples, “sponge filters Texas” “Shrimp Food Canada” the more specific you are, the more Google can help you.
Now I will have a tremendous spare pump that will be there when I need it, do this with your shrimp keeping equipment and supplies, build in safety measure and have backups for everything, for us that could be a backup aquarium heater for that Sulawesi tank or how about a backup pat mini filter for the cherry shrimp tank?
I think it’s also worth pointing out that even local stores will have issues with supplies, so please bear that in mind that when you are buying stuff and if there is a delay, they face the same problem as the rest of us, so please show some patience.
Be helpful to your local stores and interact with them in a friendly way because trust me when all this COVID nonsense is over. It will be remembered, and you never know when you will depend on them again for supplies, so let us keep them in business.
Stay safe, my friend, and of course, Happy Shrimp Keeping.
Mark Shrimp Tanks
Shrimp Tank GH General Hardness
General hardness abbreviated as GH is also known as water hardness. GH is simply the measure of the total salts contained in your aquarium water. Calcium and magnesium are the primary salts dissolved in hard water.
Water abundant in GH is referred to as hard water, while one low in GH is regarded as soft. Generally, water that has little or no calcium and magnesium is considered soft, whereas water that has plentiful of calcium and magnesium is considered hard.
Even though GH is an essential component of water chemistry, there is no need for panic among people using tap water that dont know their GH because in general tap water will be made to have a specific GH depending on source and municipal area. (Hardy species of shrimp can be kept in these conditions)
This is why its very important that you first know your GH levels if you seriously want to get into shrimp and give them the best conditions possible, Most of the time this water will be more than adequate for easy to keep species of shrimp like cherry shrimp and ghost shrimp.
So, what are the reasons for monitoring the GH in your shrimp tank :
Your water is either hard or soft.
Anyone who has ever breed fish can attest that not all fish can flourish in a similar environment and conditions this is the same for shrimp. If, for instance, your water source is too soft or too hard, it will be unlikely for you to keep specific types of shrimp that thrive in the middle of this range. You’ve to keep your GH in check, and based on the findings; you can either raise or lower it accordingly.
It’s indisputable that some shrimp flourish in hard water while others do well in soft water. If you intend to keep these shrimp, you have to find out what parameters that type of shrimp does best in and setup your shrimp tank accordingly.
Importance of Aquarium GH to Your Aquarium
Osmoregulation is one of the main reasons why you should keep track of your aquarium GH. Osmoregulation is a natural process that takes place in your shrimp without stimulation. It’s similar to breathing.
In simple terms, osmoregulation is the process by which shrimp counters the salts and water within the body with those from the outside.
In case of a disparity between the two, it can stress your shrimp, and in some instances, it can result in the death of your shrimp. This is where some of you will be familiar with the term “white ring of death.”
This disparity is the reason why saltwater fish won’t flourish in freshwater and vice versa, its also the reason drip acclimation is so Important, never under any circumstances throw healthy looking shrimp directly into another tank, in exceptional conditions if half the shrimp are already dead in a bag then yes do what you can to save whats left to avoid killing all of them.
Electrolytes are minerals and salts that transmit electricity when dissolved in water. Some of these minerals include calcium and magnesium.
These minerals play a crucial role in the development of muscles and bones, digestion, gills development, and strengthening the shrimps immune system to fight off various infections.
Electrolytes are a necessity if your shrimp is to remain healthy, thus the need to ensure they are plenty in your aquarium water.
Note that water that lacks GH is free from electrolytes for your shrimp to consume. This can result in adverse health complications for shrimp such as failing to molt properly.
Besides shrimp, aquatic plants demand electrolytes to some extent to support their growth. For instance, plants depend on calcium to grow.
In case your water is too soft, then your GH may be insufficient to provide your shrimp and plants with the electrolytes they require to flourish and stay healthy.
From the above, there is no doubt that adequate GH is paramount in your shrimp tank depending on the species. GH levels keep on changing from time to time because plants and shrimp consume, this is why water changes and good food rich in calcium are important.
It is also possible to have extremely high GH levels in your shrimp tank if the water is subject to evaporation leaving behind calcium and magnesium minerals.
Never top up shrimp tanks with tap water as this will increase the general hardness every time you do so.
We will of course go more into shrimp species specific details when we do some species profiles.
I hope this helps you understand a little bit more about GH and how it affects shrimp tanks.
Happy Shrimp Keeping
Marks Shrimp Tanks